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Tuesday 11 December

At 3,356m base camp
Ascending in the cable car, passing
the tree-line
Today was probably the highlight of the Yunnan trip for me. The main activity was the ascent of the Yolong (Jade Dragon) snow-capped mountain, visible form Li Jiang itself.

It was only a short 30 min bus ride to the base, where we caught shuttle buses to a base part-way up the mountain, an altitude of 3,356m. From here we caugh a  cable car for the next part of the ascent to another landing at 4,506m. This ride up was spectacular, especially amazing as we passed the tree-line and landed above the clouds. To the right of the landing was the small glacier, the first we’ve seen.

Qianxi Oxygen and Coat Rental Shop
At the 4,506m landing, the view was
spectacular
At this point we could feel the lack on oxygen. Just walking around required a slight effort.

After spending a little time taking photos and checking the oxygen bottles we’d purchased the day before we began the ascent up the wooden walkway.

Climbing up was a surprisingly hard effort but the view from above the clouds was spectacular. We had been a bit cynical about the need for oxygen, but once we started climbing the steps that attitude dissipated and we started using the oxygen to help us breathe.

Pausing for a breather at 4,571 metres
Looking down at the chair lift landing
from 4,576 metres
Were were glad we’d had an early start as we could see that the clouds were starting to roll in below us, screening out the view of the valley below.

Frances and I stopped at 4,576 metres, concerned that we would be too late to catch the return bus. Charlotte and Rocky continued to the top of the pathway at 4,680 metres - so we did have time to continue!

It’s hard to describe the feeling of being at that altitude, and looking down on the world below – every metre counts as each step upward became an effort! It was with real reluctance that we headed back down the mountain.


Beginning of the "Lijiang Impressions"
performance
Part of the performance on horseback
Following our descent from Yolong mountain we were scheduled to view a local performance - we had no idea what to expect.

Before the show, we had what was probably the worst meal we’d had during the trip. The fact that we were one of the last customers at the eatery probably didn’t help. The food was edible, but the conditions were disgusting after hundreds of people had eaten and left their unfinished food and trays everywhere.

A short time later we were ushered into a massive arena/amphitheatre, with a backdrop of Yolong mountain. Within a short time, the stage area was filled with music and performers, men and women in costume.

Quoting from the brochure:
 Lijiang Impressions is a cultural show demonstrating the traditions and lifestyle of local Naxi, Yi and Bai ethnic minorities. The show is staged right under the famous Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, which makes it the highest natural performance field in the world at 3,100 meters. It is also the second outdoor production for famous Chinese film director Zhang Yimou after his first show called “Liu Sanjie Impressions” in Yangshuo, Guilin Province.

Full cast in part of the finale sequence
The show is apparently involves 500 local people from ten different ethnic groups who were selected from 16 towns and villages in Lijiang. They use original native songs, dances and music to display the harmony of nature and human souls.

To describe the performance as impressive would be an understatement. It was a tightly choreographed exhibition of Naxi, Yi and Bai ethnic culture, woven into a loose storyline accompanied by fantastic music and singing. 

An enthusiastic westerner buys a copy
of the DVD
It was quite obviously a manufactured event, but nonetheless we couldn’t help being overwhelmed by the performance.

Of course we are getting a highly produced version of the cultures, however because the production does employ Naxi, Yi and Bai people and pays tribute to their cultures, I think that overall it has a positive effect.

And of the hundreds of people in the audience, I saw no other westerners. Speaking of the audience, I was quite surprised to see people going onto the stage during the finale to be photographed in front of the performers – something that wouldn’t happen in Australia.


Composite video of some of the "Lijiang Impressions" performance.


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